Northwest Indiana
Woodworkers Association

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Established 1990

Painting Toys

Some others and I have been having a problem painting toys without leaving brush strokes.  I have tried various water based paints and experienced the problem with all of them except the General Finishes Milk Paint and I don’t care for the dull finish, but that is a personal choice.  It seems that the paints are formulated to dry quickly and this is the problem.  They don’t allow enough time for the paint to self-level.

So this is what I have been doing.  I add 2 or 3 tablespoons of water to a pint  (8 fluid ounces) of paint.  This thins the paint and slows down the drying time.

Keep in mind that each type of paint is different so you need to experiment on a test piece of the same type of wood.  You may not have room in a new can of paint to add the water and stir, so pour the 8 oz.’s into a larger container.  I have tried Floetrol additive.  This slows the drying time, but dulls the finish.

Here is the whole process that I have found to be successful:  Carefully sand the project to 180 grit.  Good sanding is very important because thinned paint will not cover dents or cross grain scratches.  Remove dust by blowing with compressed air or brushing.  Apply a coat of a clear primer or sealer.  Scuff sand with 320 grit.  Apply 2 or 3 coats of your thinned paint; scuff sanding between coats with 320 grit.  The number of coats is determined by how good you want your toys to look, keeping in mind that thinner paint requires more coats.

Here is another tip for making painting easier.  On toy cars, I drill a ¼ dia. hole in the bottom of the car.  I taper the end of a 4-inch ¼ dia. dowel.  I jam the dowel into the hole creating a handle to hold while painting.  I drill a series of 9/32 dia. holes, ½ inch deep into a length of ¾ inch thick board.  When finished painting the car, I insert the handle into the hole in the board.  This supports the car while the paint dries.  I don’t bother filling the hole in the bottom of the car.  After all the paint has dried, I redrill the axle holes to clean out any paint.

As for the wheels, I think they should be finished with two coats of Minwax Wipe on Poly.  You do not have to scuff sand.  This leaves at least some visible wood on the car.  Use the dowel handle technique as mentioned above.  Paint the hub of the axle pegs the same color as the car. 

I have heard a number of members say that they don’t like to paint or they can’t paint.  Try this method and I think you will have success.

Bob Roach  


Here is Merle Distel painting toys using 1/4" dia. dowels for handles.
Notice the painted axle pegs sitting in the drying rack.

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